Sunday, March 6, 2011

I Fixed The Washing Machine -- And I Have Some Things To Tell You

Ok, we have a Kenmore washer and it started making the most horrible griding noise ever.  Of course, that's when I think, "Oh crap, here we go having to buy a new washer.  Now is NOT the time."

Well, as luck would have it, a Google search of "My washer is making a grinding noise" yielded instructions on how to replace the "motor coupling" which is designed to fail so your motor and transmission (yes, a washer has a transmission.  I was shocked too) are not destroyed by a malfunction.

Well, it was a wonderful opus on how to take off the cabinet (the metal that is around the bowl) and all of that.  When I was confused by the lack of ways to take off the console I started poking around until I found an unwilling store manager who didn't want me to call the corporate office on her.  She had a technician call me (he was the only nice person I talked to all day) and he said, "Oh, don't take the cabinet off."

Sweet!

So, without further ado, the easy way to fix the motor coupling on your Kenmore (and many other kinds of washers including Whirlpool.)  (There's the coupling right there.)

  1. Unplug the washer.  Please.
  2. Pull it out from the wall and tip it back.  You want to lean it against the wall so much that it won't fall on you.  For everyone this is different, but you just need to feel like you can stick your head under the washer and it won't fall down.  Believe me, this is preferable to taking off the whole cabinet and dealing with all of that.  When a tech tells you that adds half an hour to his job that means it's going to take you AT LEAST an hour.  That's bad.
  3. When you tip the washer back you'll see everything.  There's a water pump (it's attached to the side of the motor, the motor, and the bowl.  That's pretty much it.
  4. There are two metal clamps that hold the water pump to the motor.  They have been annealed on the ends.  Just push up the annealed end and it should pop off.  Pop off both springs and gently pull the pump away from the motor.  DO NOT REMOVE ANY HOSES.  It's not worth it.  Just kind of push it to the side.  It won't go too far, but it'll be fine.
  5. Now you have the motor exposed.  It has a rod sticking out of the side which is what you pulled the water pump off of.  PLEASE TAKE NOTE what direction the rod is pointing.  It's shaped like a flattened oval.  So, it only fits on the water pump one way.  Be sure you know which way this is.  It's very IMPORTANT.  If not, you'll fight to get the motor back on and realize you have the rod turned the wrong direction and you'll have to redo this all over again (like I did.)
  6. Remove the electrical connections to the motor.  It's just one set of them that are altogether.  It's no different that the 17 pin connections for old printers.  Just slide it off gently.  There may be other wires, but they don't come off and the wires are usually much longer.  So, don't bother.  Just do the big one. 
  7. There are two clamps holding the motor in place.  Each one pops on with an annealed end, but is also screwed on.  In my case I needed a 1/4 inch socket.  Just gently remove the top on first, because it's harder, then pop off the bracket.  
  8. Then, place your hand under the motor, because it is HEAVY and will drop, and unscrew the other screw.  Gently let the motor down to the floor.
  9. At this point you probably see the broken motor coupling.  Something is cracked or out of place.  Remove all of that and get ready to start over.  If the male ends don't come off the transmission or motor grab a pair of pliers and gently rock them back and forth to get them off.
  10. One of the white plastic pieces goes on both the motor and the transmission.  They may not feel like they go on very easily, and that's ok.  Take a larger socket, get it on the wrench, and place the socket on the face of the white piece (NOT the prongs) and gently tap it into place.  Hammering it will break it.
  11. Now, you have to put this thing back together.  Were I you, I'd put the black piece (the center piece) on the transmission end so all you're doing it trying to fit the prongs from the motor side (your side) into place. 
  12. Ok, this is where you scoot up to the washer.  Pick the motor and gently slide it up to the transmission.  Use your knees/legs to help hold up the motor and you GENTLY slide it into position.  Be gentle, it may take you more than one try.  ALSO remember that you need to have the motor rod turned the right direction so that when you get this done the rod is pointing the right way AND it will fit back into the water pump.  That's a big deal.
  13. Once the motor slides back into place (and you'll know because all of the sudden this job felt easy -- just for a moment) hold the motor up with your knees/legs and place the clamps back on.  Remember, take your time.  Get one on and screw it back in, then to the other.  You'll need your knees/legs for leverage because clamping the clamps back on requires more force than you would think.
  14. With everything screwed back on on the motor's end, lay back down under the unit and place the water pump back on the motor (very easy) and replace the clamps.  They only go in one place, so you won't get lost.
  15. Guess what?  You're done.

That's the easy way.  Please do it for any Kenmore or Whirlpool washer -- I bet it works with others too.  But, in particular, I was working on a Kenmore Elite Model # 110.24972300.  If you don't know your model number it's exposed when you open the lid.

Happy handymanning!

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